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A guest post by Rita Stiens. The story of natural and organic cosmetics is a story of success. But there’s also a worrying trend: an increased use of chemically transformed natural ingredients. NATRUE's criteria are putting a halt to this and I am grateful for it.

Let me explain.     

Natural and Organic Cosmetics should guarantee the highest possible levels of naturalness. Plant oils are a good example here because they are such important ingredients in creams.

These oils are full of active components. It's why nutritionists recommend them in our foods and it's why they are so good for our skin.  

But these valuable natural oils are often replaced by ester oils – oils that are made in a laboratory.

How? By decomposing natural oils and combining the fatty acids with glycerin or other alcohols. The result has little in common with a natural oil. The protective and regenerating benefits are largely lost.

You can find these ester oils in many certified products because their use is not restricted under some labels.

How does this look on the ingredient list? Let’s take the example of a cream base that is made with three oils as major ingredients.
When the use of ester oils is not restricted, you could find the following three ingredients among the first on the list:

Dicaprylyl Ether, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Octyldodecanol.

These are three ester oils.

Where the use of ester oils is restricted you could find the following three natural and highly beneficial oils instead:

Broccoli Seed Oil (Brassica oleracea italica), Olive Soja Oil (Olea europea) and Jojoba-oil (Simmondsia Chinensis).  

According to my understanding of natural cosmetics, the first product should not obtain natural or organic certification.

Congratulations to NATRUE for leading back to the right path: pure natural oils should be used where possible. It's what consumers expect.

Rita Stiens

Rita Stiens is a journalist and renowned author of books on cosmetics and their ingredients. Her book 'La Vérité sur les Cosmétiques' was a bestseller in France and has been translated into many languages. She also runs a website with hands-on information on cosmetics and their ingredients:
There is also a French and a German version.

de Rita Stiens
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