How have certified Natural and Organic Cosmetics evolved over the last ten years? What are the new formulations and trends? These will be the key topics NATRUE will explore during its participation at COSMOPROF 2017 where the international non-profit association that has been promoting and protecting Natural and Organic Cosmetics since 2007 will celebrate its 10 years of commitment.
In the large exhibition space (Stand A9 in Hall 21N), NATRUE, which has almost 5000 certified products of over 230 brands from 30 countries worldwide, will look into the most significant stages of this developing sector. The association will explain how certified Natural and Organic Cosmetics have progressively evolved, focusing on innovative formulations with new ingredients such as those fermented by microorganisms and the development of biotechnology which lie at the centre of an increasingly sustainable and environmentally conscious production.
NATRUE will be exhibiting with representatives of 6 member companies including some of the founding members of the association: Dr. Hauschka (WALA GmbH, Germany), HA-THA (DT GmbH Bio-Wellness, Germany), lavera (laverana GmbH, Germany), Logocos (LOGOCOS Naturkosmetik AG, Germany), Naturativ (AROMEDA Sp. Z.o.o., Poland), and Weleda (Weleda AG, Germany) who will present their NATRUE certified skincare and latest hero products which visitors will have the opportunity to try.
Natural and Organic Cosmetics, free from synthetic raw materials (such as petroleum derivatives, silicones and surfactants), are based on natural ingredients (or of natural origin) such as plant extracts, vegetable oils, essential oils that, over the last decade, have refined texture and performance.
"We are witnessing key trends in the certified Natural and Organic Cosmetics sector. The products are becoming increasingly efficient thanks to the use of new natural and organic raw materials or to a different usage of them. At the same time, the greenwashing phenomenon still persists which is why, in the absence of an official regulation or mandatory seals in Europe, we think it is important to help consumers identify labels like ours based on strict criteria in order to guarantee the authenticity of true Natural and Organic Cosmetic products", stated Dr. Mark Smith, NATRUE Director General.
From 15th to 18th February 2017, the international natural and organic cosmetics and personal care sector will meet again at VIVANESS in Nuremberg, Germany. VIVANESS has established itself as the central platform for the sector and NATRUE will once again be proudly participating as part of a joint stand within the industry event with ten NATRUE Label Users - and celebrating its own 10th anniversary.
NATRUE, the International Natural and Organic Cosmetics Association, became an official honorary sponsor of VIVANESS in 2016 and is delighted to be soon exhibiting again in the "hot spot" of the international natural and organic cosmetics world. After last year's major success of NATRUE's first ever pavilion, the association will partake once again with a joint stand (Hall 7A, Stand 251) where, in addition to providing information on the association, the NATRUE label and the latest developments, NATRUE will be exhibiting this year on a 120m2 area with representatives of 10 international manufacturers of natural and organic cosmetics carrying the NATRUE label, including NATRUE founder members and industry pioneers.
Key dates related to the NATRUE pavilion at VIVANESS 2017:
amo como soy (amo como soy, Germany) - Beauty Garden (SARL La Ferme de Beauté, France) - Cosnature (Cosmolux, Germany) - Farfalla (Farfalla Essentials AG, Switzerland) - Irish Organics (Rí Na Mara, Ireland) - lavera (Laverana GmbH, Germany) - Lenz Naturpflege (Die Regionalen GmbH, Germany) - LOGOCOS (LOGOCOS Naturkosmetik AG) - PRIMAVERA (PRIMAVERA LIFE GmbH, Germany) - Weleda (Weleda AG, Germany).
As part of "NATRUE's 10th Anniversary on Tour", VIVANESS 2017 will be the first event on our programme celebrating 10 years of NATRUE's dedication to the protection and promotion of natural and organic cosmetics. NATRUE will have its first 10th anniversary celebration event at VIVANESS on 16th February from 5-6pm at the Open Stage area. This celebratory event is open to everyone wishing to raise their glasses and share the association's commitment and dedication for the sector, since its foundation in 2007.
Under the theme "The Evolution of Natural and Organic Cosmetics throughout the last 10 years", and naturally linking with NATRUE's 10th anniversary, bloggers, journalists and other interested parties will not only have the opportunity to discover international certified brands carrying the NATRUE seal from France, Germany, Ireland and Switzerland but also learn about the association's biggest achievements over the past decade and the future challenges for the sector that lay ahead.
The NATRUE team will be at the pavilion at the visitors' disposal throughout the trade fair days. In addition, NATRUE Director General Dr. Mark Smith will be part of a panel discussion and hold several presentations at "VIVANESS On Stage" - updated information can be found here.
NATRUE President Klara Ahlers concludes: "VIVANESS has become the place-to-be for every actor from the natural and organic cosmetics sector worldwide. As an honorary sponsor and partner since the establishment of the association, we are delighted to be exhibiting once again with a pavilion after its major success of last year, and look forward to be celebrating our decennial anniversary at the heart of the natural cosmetics world. We could not have wished for a better place than this international meeting point to hold our kick-off anniversary celebratory event as part of our 10th Anniversary On Tour."
With the start of every New Year we can ask ourselves what will change for natural and organic cosmetics. What will impact our sector in the next year? The primary question for many is: as 1st January 2017 dawns will there be a European harmonised standard for Natural and Organic Cosmetics?
The simple answer is: No.
The absence of European harmonised standard for Natural and Organic Cosmetics has been previously communicated in an official statement by the EU Commission that can be found here.
This means the current regulatory framework remains identical on 1st January 2017:
· In the absence of an official regulatory definition of Natural and Organic Cosmetic products there exist private, voluntary standards like that of NATRUE, which sets criteria for the NATRUE Label.
· Natural and Organic Cosmetic products are still an officially undefined sector of the tightly regulated European industry.
"On 1st January 2017 there will not be a mandatory European harmonised standard setting criteria for all Natural and Organic Cosmetics, and there will be no obligatory Label in Europe for Natural and Organic Cosmetics on this date either", said Dr Mark Smith, Director General NATRUE, who added that "NATRUE will continue to advocate that any future regulatory definition of Natural and Organic Cosmetics must be appropriate, relevant and strict, and pending an official regulatory definition the strict NATRUE Label criteria will continue."
Even in the absence of European harmonised standard for Natural and Organic Cosmetics, NATRUE looks forward positively to 2017, and its continued mission to protect and promote natural and organic cosmetics for the benefit of consumers worldwide.
Taking place at MalmöMässan in Sweden on 16-17th November, the show’s seminar line-up will revolve around numerous hot topics including emerging natural beauty trends, authenticity of natural and organic cosmetics, sustainability, allergies, raw materials, and specialist skincare products among others. NATRUE will contribute with the participation of Director General Dr. Mark Smith who will be holding a seminar on Thursday 17th November.
How to define authentic natural and organic cosmetic products? - 17th November 13:00-13:45 at the Natural Beauty Theatre
Dr. Smith will explore the current regulatory framework of the natural and organic cosmetics sector, providing a clear overview on the characterization of 'authentic' natural and organic cosmetics in the industry that for the most part carry a seal. "Consumers still struggle when it comes to understanding the differences between labels, what requirements are behind them, and whether or not they offer the same degree of strictness and transparency. Therefore, it is increasingly important to positively engage with consumers to help their understanding of what's behind each seal, so that they can avoid those labels which are, for example, just a self-declaration or those with a weak criteria", explains Dr. Smith in anticipation of his talk.
In addition, Dr. Smith will focus on a comparison between the NATRUE Standard and the provisions of the ISO Guidelines, the first part of which has recently been released. According to NATRUE's Director General, these Guidelines "represent a weakening of the current, stronger definitions for what a natural cosmetic should be, and so have the potential risk to undermine future consumer trust in the sector."
A GfK study commissioned in 2014 by NATRUE involving 900 consumers from six countries reveals that over 60% are reassured by the presence of a label. Those who claim to know one or more labels mostly* report that their presence is one of the decisive criteria at the time of purchase (*49% relating to several labels).
This is a well-deserved confidence, but... among these informed consumers, who knows the specifications and checks that give their favorite cream that extra confidence? Indeed, in order for everyone to do their cosmetics purchases with closed eyes, verifications in several stages (both upstream and downstream) have been implemented, from the fields to the packaging.
The first step of the certification is achieved through a documentation check. This is a time during which the manufacturer works with an independent certification body that accompanies him through the process, in close collaboration with NATRUE and its Scientific Committee Criteria and Label. First, the certification body will check the documentation related to the product range, including the formulations and INCI designations as well as the proof of origin of the raw materials for their compliance with the NATRUE Standard.
Secondly, the certification body will undertake a production audit. "The person in charge of the audit visited the facility, examined everything in detail, including the data sheets of the raw materials (for example, statements of our suppliers regarding non-GMO presence...) but also the reported amounts, the state of raw material stocks, the shares... Indeed, it is important to check that we sell what we declare producing!" explains Marie Bardou from Beauty Garden, a young French NATRUE organic certified brand.
"I admit that the process is not exactly a cakewalk for us!", adds Domenico Scordari, founder of the company Natura e Benessere with a smile: "an inspector of the certification body spends several days to check our ingredient lists, our compositions; everything is examined and controlled. But this certification and these checks are a guarantee of credibility and reliability for the brands we work with."
The NATRUE organic cosmetics certification (the most demanding level of the three certification categories of the Standard, guaranteeing a proportion of at least 95% of natural ingredients derived from controlled organic cultivation and/or controlled wild collection) brings objective "proof" of this level of requirement.
For brands that formulate using ingredients processed by other companies, the NATRUE certification is the way to integrate proof of respect for nature in their products, ensuring that all ingredients and their use have been checked at every production stage.
Added value of NATRUE
Domenico continues: "the presence of many national labels for organic cosmetics is confusing for consumers but also for the producers: in fact, as a third party manufacturer we must succeed in designing products that meet standards which vary by country. The advantage of NATRUE: it is an international standard known around the world. Therefore, my clients are certain to offer a product whose specifications are understood by consumers who are more and more informed worldwide. Besides, it is probably no coincidence that all my clients are growing businesses!"
Marie Bardou adds: "as, to date, no "European standard" for natural and organic cosmetics exists, we have chosen a certification that tells our story as accurately as possible, and above all that distinguishes us from other brands whose approach is not quite as sharp, using objective, verifiable criteria that are verified by a third party."
The NATRUE certification tells a story, based on integrity and on the reliability of ingredients and methods used. A story which increasingly becomes a shared value for industries and consumers.
NATRUE renews web communication and integrates the Italian language. To keep visitors always informed about natural, organic and certified cosmetics, the International Association based in Brussels and born to promote and protect authentic natural and organic cosmetics, has decided to renew its website and integrate an Italian version amongst the other languages, in the face of the ever growing amount of brands and certified products on the Italian market, i.e. approximately 30% of the total.
www.natrue.org is characterized by a modern and attractive layout, designed to make navigation easy, immediate and intuitive, also optimized for Smartphone and Tablet. The integration of social networks and the ability to subscribe to the newsletter was also a must.
From the main menu, you can wander around the site and join the sections dedicated to consumers, manufacturers, and the media. In particular, consumers can find news and useful insights to recognize true natural and organic cosmetics and information on the added value of the NATRUE certification. You can also consult the list of certified products with pictures, descriptions, usage advice, find companies that produce them and the references sold in Italy.
"A user-friendly and multilingual website, thus accessible to an increasing number of consumers, enhances NATRUE's goal of creating culture on certified natural and organic cosmetics. Who approaches the world of bio beauty must, in fact, be provided with continuity and immediacy of information as well as correct indications to meet the challenges posed by greenwashing or the tendency to pass off as natural and organic products that actually are not", explained Francesca Morgante, NATRUE Label & Communication Manager.
Over 60% of European consumers are reassured by the presence of certification marks, especially in the natural and organic cosmetics sector. This point of fact is something that NATRUE knows very well after appointing GFK to research the consumers' behaviour which led to the study entitled "Exploring the Territory of Natural and Organic Cosmetics".
The survey results, involving more than 900 women aged between 25 and 65 from six European countries including Germany, France, Italy, Poland, Sweden and the UK will be among the issues presented by NATRUE at Sana 2016.
"Consumers are increasingly aware and informed, however the phenomenon of greenwashing, the tendency to present as natural something which is far from it, is still a risk for our sector. Our participation to Sana, along with seven of our partner companies, goes in this direction: we want to work together to promote authentic natural and organic cosmetics by explaining the strict criteria of NATRUE and certification processes, which ingredients are allowed and in what proportion. To offer even greater assurance to the consumers, our standard requires that for each brand not only a few products are to be certified, but at least 75% of the line" says Francesca Morgante, NATRUE Label & Communication Manager.
At its Pavilion (Hall 36 stand D66 / E65), NATRUE will present seven partner companies including some of the founding members of the Association such as Laverana, WALA - Dr. Hauschka and Weleda.
Not to be missed: new natural formulations of Cosnature, Fair Squared with its Vegan and Halal lines, Weckerle Cosmetics that produces according to the NATRUE standard for private labels, and Naturativ, afamous Polish brand that mixes tradition and innovation.
Klara Ahlers, NATRUE's President and Managing Director Sales & Marketing of Laverana GmbH & Co. KG recalls: "The natural and organic cosmetics market is fast growing in Italy and is no longer a niche segment. We are pleased to come back to Sana where lavera was launched nearly 30 years ago".
"Natures's Treasures Transformed for You" is the founding principle of WALA - Dr. Hauschka, which highlights the importance of the rhythm and the alternation of hot and cold polarity, stasis and movement, light and dark to create its own natural ingredients, obtained from biodynamic or organic sources. Dr. Hauschka cosmetics offer a complete line of treatments dedicated to the face, the body and make-up. The Dr. Hauschka makeup station will be a welcome addition at SANA with makeup sessions available for visitors at the stand.
Weleda will reveal the brand new NATRUE certified scented water. "We are proud to have adopted the NATRUE standard for our products," says Stefano Riva, Managing Director of Weleda Italy, "because its criteria are so high and strict that they represent a stimulus to increasingly improve the natural quality of our products".
Finally, NATRUE will make a further contribution to the trade fair thanks to Francesca Morgante's participation, on Saturday 10th September at 11am, in the talk show organized by CCPB and Siste, "Organic cosmetics: a question of label?", held in the Sala Melodia near the Service Centre block B.
Our 40-year journey began with this Directive whose purpose was to harmonise the law covering cosmetic products, which has since improved and benefited the industry and consumers alike. For manufactures it provided a definition for what a cosmetic product is and what a product can or cannot contain; different Member State national laws were done away with, and free movement within the then European Economic Community (EEC) was eased - without lowering the bar for consumer protection and safety.
Over the decades the Directive has seen several changes through its seven amendments, and has since been transformed into a Regulation (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009) that came into force in July 2013.
Looking forward it is a simple fact that challenges will always lie ahead.
For instance, to-date there is no official regulatory definition of finished Natural and Organic Cosmetics. Our beloved products are still an officially undefined sector of the tightly regulated European industry, and this is the reason for NATRUE’s advocacy role - that any future regulatory definition of Natural and Organic Cosmetics must be appropriate, relevant and strict.
NATRUE looks forward to the next 40 years of strong EU legislation to the benefit of consumers; ensuring both the quality and authenticity they expect.
Dr Mark Smith joined NATRUE in June 2014 as Scientific and Regulatory Manager. He will continue his role in these fields of expertise in addition to his responsibilities related to his new role as Director General.
We thank Dr Mark Smith for this strong commitment and wish him every success in his new role. We are confident that by taking this step, the NATRUE organization will reinforce its mission to protect and promote natural and organic cosmetics worldwide.
“The Annual Report 2015 is an in-depth way to discover everything NATRUE has done to date; with a focus on the last twelve months. In 2017 we will celebrate NATRUE’s 10th anniversary. giving us altogether the chance to mark the successes of the past, and to look forward to the challenges and achievements of the future – as well as other great, and unexpected, things” Klara Ahlers proudly exclaims.
The Report is structured in 3 specific areas which represent the main activities of NATRUE: Advocacy, Label and Research.
Presenting for the very first time all NATRUE members listed by country and includes key statistics on the unstoppable worldwide spread of the NATRUE Label.
For those interested in knowing more about how NATRUE works, the sections regarding the organisational structure, the BOD, and its working groups as well as the NATRUE team provide further insights.
The Annual Report is freely downloadable here. Enjoy!