NATRUE renews web communication and integrates the Italian language. To keep visitors always informed about natural, organic and certified cosmetics, the International Association based in Brussels and born to promote and protect authentic natural and organic cosmetics, has decided to renew its website and integrate an Italian version amongst the other languages, in the face of the ever growing amount of brands and certified products on the Italian market, i.e. approximately 30% of the total.
www.natrue.org is characterized by a modern and attractive layout, designed to make navigation easy, immediate and intuitive, also optimized for Smartphone and Tablet. The integration of social networks and the ability to subscribe to the newsletter was also a must.
From the main menu, you can wander around the site and join the sections dedicated to consumers, manufacturers, and the media. In particular, consumers can find news and useful insights to recognize true natural and organic cosmetics and information on the added value of the NATRUE certification. You can also consult the list of certified products with pictures, descriptions, usage advice, find companies that produce them and the references sold in Italy.
"A user-friendly and multilingual website, thus accessible to an increasing number of consumers, enhances NATRUE's goal of creating culture on certified natural and organic cosmetics. Who approaches the world of bio beauty must, in fact, be provided with continuity and immediacy of information as well as correct indications to meet the challenges posed by greenwashing or the tendency to pass off as natural and organic products that actually are not", explained Francesca Morgante, NATRUE Label & Communication Manager.
Our 40-year journey began with this Directive whose purpose was to harmonise the law covering cosmetic products, which has since improved and benefited the industry and consumers alike. For manufactures it provided a definition for what a cosmetic product is and what a product can or cannot contain; different Member State national laws were done away with, and free movement within the then European Economic Community (EEC) was eased - without lowering the bar for consumer protection and safety.
Over the decades the Directive has seen several changes through its seven amendments, and has since been transformed into a Regulation (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009) that came into force in July 2013.
Looking forward it is a simple fact that challenges will always lie ahead.
For instance, to-date there is no official regulatory definition of finished Natural and Organic Cosmetics. Our beloved products are still an officially undefined sector of the tightly regulated European industry, and this is the reason for NATRUE’s advocacy role - that any future regulatory definition of Natural and Organic Cosmetics must be appropriate, relevant and strict.
NATRUE looks forward to the next 40 years of strong EU legislation to the benefit of consumers; ensuring both the quality and authenticity they expect.
Dr Mark Smith joined NATRUE in June 2014 as Scientific and Regulatory Manager. He will continue his role in these fields of expertise in addition to his responsibilities related to his new role as Director General.
We thank Dr Mark Smith for this strong commitment and wish him every success in his new role. We are confident that by taking this step, the NATRUE organization will reinforce its mission to protect and promote natural and organic cosmetics worldwide.
Organized, precise and reliable Office Administrator Intern
Undergraduate/graduate seeking an opportunity as Scientific and Regulatory Affairs Intern
Candidates should show practical skills, high motivation for work, flexibility, and team spirit to work with a dynamic and international team in Brussels. Full internship descriptions are provided in the attachments.
ITRI’s interest in natural and organic cosmetics is not without cause, considering the Taiwanese market growth in this sector. In terms of import, Taiwan’s domestic cosmetic market size was about NT$100 billion in 2014, of which NT$ 36.5 billion was from imports. The largest import was from the EU, followed by Japan, and the major import items included skin care and colour cosmetics (>50%). Taiwan’s cosmetic export was NT$ 16.4 billion in 2014. Taiwan’s export is growing strong, with a rise of 134% from 2008 to 2014 (+15%CAGR). China (including Hong Kong) is Taiwan’s largest export country, which grew by 481% from 2008 to 2014 (+34% CAGR).
The meeting in the European capital provided an opportunity for international engagement whereby both NATRUE and ITRI could exchange regulatory and scientific knowledge and ideas from the natural and organic cosmetic industry and research sectors within the EU and Taiwan on natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and finished products.
NATRUE highlighted the need for a strong definition of natural and organic cosmetics and provided and overview of the association’s structure, challenges and achievements. In this respect, NATRUE also outlined its prior involvement in international research and training activities covering scientific research/innovation and regulatory affairs expertise.
The Taiwanese members of ITRI were thoroughly informed and updated on the technical, operational and control methods of the NATRUE Standard as a strong, authentic and well-adopted definition of natural and organic cosmetics, contributing to their protection and promotion to the benefit of consumers worldwide.
The meeting was arranged through introduction of NATRUE to the ITRI delegation by Dr. Gerald Renner of Cosmetics Europe.
For further details please contact Dr Mark Smith, Regulatory and Scientific Manager at NATRUE AISBL (email@example.com).
On the picture (from left to right): Dr Mark Smith, Regulatory and Scientific Manager at NATRUE AISBL; Mr. Eric Tai (General Director and Head of Operation Office of ITRI); Ms Miranda Hsueh (Commercialisation and Industry Service Centre).
In 2010 draft guidelines for NOC products were tabled by the conventional cosmetic industry with the International Standardization Organization (ISO) with the hopeful aim of creating harmonised technical criteria encouraging innovation, allowing for claims substantiation, and being useful to the industry at large. As the International Natural and Organic Cosmetic Association, NATRUE joined the process as a “liaison representative”.
About the ISO 16128 guidelines
The ISO guidelines for NOC ingredients and products, 16128, are produced by the Cosmetics Working Group at ISO (ISO/217 WG4), and consist of two parts: Definitions (16128-1) and Criteria (16128-2). 16128-1 is, so far, expected in the second half of 2015 whereas 16128-2, currently still under discussion, is likely due in 2016. To be put into practice, both parts of the guideline are required for real-world use to define and calculate natural/organic content for ingredients and products.
In principle everyone involved, both the industry and consumers, could benefit from the ISO guidelines. The practice, however, could be somewhat different as unlike existing standards for natural and organic cosmetics, ISO 16128, in its current state, does not include criteria for determining when a product can, or cannot, be classified as ‘natural’ or ‘organic’. For consumers at the end of the chain, it could therefore be particularly difficult to know exactly whether a product meets requirements in order to be considered “natural” or “organic” based upon its ingredients.
We at NATRUE believe consumers should be given the option to be able to make a conscious and informed purchase decision based upon clear information. A key challenge is to maintain and develop, not loose, consumer trust and confidence in NOC products.
The problems of the ISO 16128 guidelines
Transparency: Private standards for NOC product certification are voluntary and their contents freely and openly accessible to the public; some can be used internationally. The ISO guidelines can also be used internationally and voluntarily but their contents are only accessible through purchase.
Classification of ingredients – ‘natural’:The strength, and strict nature, of a NOC standard is based upon its clear criteria definitions and requirements, consistency and absence of derogations. We at NATRUE do not believe that, as written, ISO 16128-1 meets consumer expectations by permitting artificial (‘man-made’) or genetically modified (GMO) ingredients:
-By definitionNATRUE requires that all derived natural ingredients come exclusively, 100 %, from natural raw materials. The current ISO 16128-1 version technically could allow for up to half of an ingredient (by weight) derived from a natural starting material to come from petrochemical sources.
-Production from or by GMOs is prohibited by NATRUE. However, in certain parts of the world, included as a footnote in ISO 16128-1, GM plants can be considered natural, which is inconsistent with a harmonized approach.
Ingredients classification – ‘organic’:Within its standard NATRUE has a harmonised approach to recognition of accredited organic standards/regulations via the IFOAM Family of Standards. Although ISO guidelines, at present, define what are considered organic ingredients, there is no requirement for the use of a recognised harmonised system to indicate what qualifies a raw material as ‘organic’; instead they provide derogation to differences at (inter)national level.
Substantiation of claims: To-date the ISO guidelines provide no information on the substantiation of claims referring to NOC products. The absence, so far, of any such information on product communication means, as a result, that there is no precise definition of when a cosmetic product is considered ‘natural’ or ‘organic’.
As a vehement supporter of consumers’ fundamental ‘right to know, the right to choose’, we at NATRUE believe that ISO 16128, as currently written, represents more confusion for the consumer with potential for only the perception, rather than reality, of NOC authenticity.For insight into the consumers’ perspective, NATRUE commissioned an independent consumer enquiry study with GfK, which highlighted that the requirements NATRUE criteria reflected consumer expectations.
The role of labels
Consumers are increasingly self-educated and read labels.
The NATRUE Label, as an indication of certification to verifiable requirements within the standard, must be presented on all NATRUE-certified products for the consumer. A NATRUE-certified product can, therefore, only claim when it is considered ‘natural’ or ‘organic’ according to its respective certification level and specific product category requirements.
By contrast the ISO logo is not permitted for use, and, at present, ISO 16128 provides no guidance for when a cosmetic product can be considered ‘natural’ or ‘organic’. In this instance, the consumer is potentially left only a with claim to natural/organic content, based upon criteria calculations from 16128-2, without the added value of transparency to understand of what this claim means and how the value was calculated.
We at NATRUE believe that the ISO 16128 guidelines, as currently written, are expected to be weaker than existing private European standard definitions of NOCs, to whom thousands of consumers have signed-up based on trust and confidence. These guidelines may lead to consumer confusion rather than clarity, even potential mistrust – and this without fundamental consideration of consumer expectations.
To address this challenge, NATRUE has decided to adopt the IFOAM technical definition of what constitutes an accepted organic standard: that is, one that is approved under the IFOAM Family of Standards. Such standards have passed a rigorous assessment by IFOAM experts and demonstrated both their local relevance and their equivalence to the international Common Objectives and Requirements of Organic Standards (COROS). The IFOAM Family of Standards represents both the diversity and the unity of what is considered organic worldwide.
NATRUE has just updated its Label Criteria The new version (2.9) of these requirements is now defining organic raw materials as those being certified by a duly recognized certification body or authority to an organic standard or regulation approved in the IFOAM Family of Standards.
IFOAM and NATRUE believe that these new criteria will benefit producers, traders and consumers, with an approach that combines inclusiveness and integrity. Producers certified to their local organic regulation or standard will now be able to supply NATRUE cosmetic manufacturers, provided that the local standard has been approved by IFOAM. This should ultimately favor the uptake of the NATRUE label globally and ensure its credibility towards consumers.
More information on the NATRUE requirements can be found here More information about the IFOAM Family of Standards can be found here
Although Asia has become a major source of cosmetic ingredients, the sustainable sourcing of raw materials is often questioned. The summit will discuss best-practices in sustainable sourcing of cosmetic ingredients. Click hereto receive the detailed program.
Each edition of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit brings together leading organizations involved in sustainability in the beauty industry; including small and large cosmetic companies, ingredient firms, packaging companies, industry associations, certification agencies and NGOs.
The Sustainable Cosmetics Summit is organised by Organic Monitor.
Organic Monitor is a London-based specialist research, consulting & training company that focuses on the global organic & related product industries.
Dr. Shoko Furuno, NATRUE's Regulatory and Scientific Manager, will be speaking at Biofach Japan on Friday 31st October 2013 - Seminar Room 1. "NATRUE: A home to all true friends of Natural and Organic Cosmetics" will highlight the reasons why NATRUE was first founded, and our activities and results to date. She will also explain the core principles behind the NATRUE Label Criteria and certification procedures.
NATRUE will also be happy to welcome visitors at our stand 6-15 where a selection of NATRUE Certified Products will be displayed and information about NATRUE membership, NATRUE EU funded projects/recommendations and much more can be obtained.
Shoko will not be alone in this venture in her homeland: representatives of JAPAL (Japan Association for Pharmaceutical Affairs Law Foundation) will also be there to support. JAPAL was founded with the purpose of enhancing and improving Pharmaceutical Law and related matters especially in the drug and cosmetics sectors.
Since 2012 JAPAL is NATRUE's first Approved Certifier based in East Asia operating predominately in Japan and Korea. JAPAL, together with WELEDA Japan and LOGONA Japan recently launched an extremely informative website about NATRUE, where people can easily access up-to-date news and information in Japanese - see: natrue.jpn.com
"This website will soon be available in Korean and will enable consumers to know which NATRUE Certified products are available in the Japanese market" announced Mr. Takeshi Yoshida, BOD Chairman of JAPAL.
We look forward to meeting you in Tokyo between the 31st October and the 2nd of November, do not miss this great opportunity to get to know more about NATRUE in the context of Biofach Japan.
“Natural Products Scandinavia has been identified as a “must be there”event for NATRUE this year. The awareness and consciousness of Scandinavian consumers about natural cosmetics is higher compared to other areas in Europe. Still, confusion could arise due to the lack of regulation at international level and the proliferation of Labels, which often do not guarantee the same high standard” noted Julie Tyrrell, Director, Public Affairs, NATRUE.
“NATRUE also recently welcomed its very first member from Sweden” continued Ms Tyrrell. ”DZ Wellness also opted for active involvement in our association’s activities further to certifying the brand Dharmazone, to the NATRUE Label”.
Today NATRUE can count on the support of members from Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Greece, Poland and Sweden and interest is continually growing worldwide.
For those who are interested in learning more Ms Tyrrell will be speaking Sunday 20th October at 12.00 during the session “NATRUE: a platform protecting consumers and industry alike” providing insights about the sector and key information about NATRUE’s mission, activities and challenges.
Together with Ms Tyrrell, Francesca Morgante, NATRUE Label Manager, will welcome visitors at stand NE35. “Many Scandinavian companies have opted for the NATRUE Label offering consumers natural and organic cosmetics which fulfil strict, transparent and international Criteria. Those companies play an important role representing almost the 9% of the total number of NATRUE Label Users”.
A wide selection of NATRUE certified products, will be available at the stand together with brochures, information material about NATRUE, its members and Label Users.