From 14th to 17th February 2018, the international natural and organic cosmetics and personal care sector will meet again at VIVANESS in Nuremberg, Germany. NATRUE, the international non-profit association for natural and organic cosmetics who became an official honorary sponsor of VIVANESS in 2016, will be exhibiting again with a joint stand, split into two parts: the Brand Galeria and, on the opposite side, the Pioneers' Gate.
At NATRUE's largest joint stand ever, visitors can discover NATRUE certified products from all over the world and find out about the association, the NATRUE seal, and current developments in the sector. Industry pioneers Laverana, Logocos, Primavera and Weleda will be exhibiting in Hall 7A, Stand 251 on the Pioneers' Gate. On the opposite side, the Brand Galeria (stand 261) will be occupied by NATRUE and representatives of eight other international manufacturers of NATRUE certified natural and organic cosmetics from Australia, France, Germany and Italy.
Key facts about the NATRUE joint stand at VIVANESS 2018:
Laverana (Germany), Logocos (Germany), Primavera (Germany), Weleda (Germany), Biovégane and Dr. Scheller (BCG Baden-Baden, Germany), Delidea Bio, Bio Happy, and Oyuna (Gala, Italy), Pure Papayacare (Australia), Beauty Garden (France), Frühmesner (Germany), HA THA (Germany), ÜBERWOOD (Germany), Yeso ' Cosmetics (Italy).
When: Wednesday, 14.02. to Saturday, 17.02.2018
Where: Messe Nürnberg | Hall 7a | Stand 251 and Stand 261
With growing consumer interest in natural and organic cosmetics comes the need to support consumers in their purchasing decision. However, greenwashing remains an ever-present malpractice to misrepresent a product's characteristics such as more ethical, sustainable, natural, organic or environmentally friendly than it actually is. Above all, greenwashing can negatively impact authentic producers, demotivate and undermine consumer confidence in the sector, and so ultimately affect the future growth of the authentic sector.
A centre point for protection and promotion of authentic natural and organic cosmetics, and the presence of the international non-profit association this year, is therefore the baseline principle of the consumers' "right to know, the right to choose".
"The increasing shift in the industry towards natural ingredients and sustainable practices is a positive one but it also means NATRUE's over ten-year commitment to the sector remains as relevant as ever by advocating for the sector's interests for all; promoting a strict standard through the NATRUE Label; providing the consumer with high quality information regarding natural and organic cosmetics and their ingredients" said Dr. Mark Smith, NATRUE Director General, who continued: "Without doubt VIVANESS represents a key international platform for NATRUE and its members to table strategy, interact with other principle stakeholders, focus on the importance of increased awareness and respect of authenticity and, in absence of a strict official definition, certification of natural and organic cosmetics."
The NATRUE team will be at the stand at the visitors' disposal throughout the fair days. In addition, Dr. Smith will be present at Vivaness' Opening Ceremony on Wednesday 14th February at 1pm in NCC Ost, Hall Tokio; participate at the official Vivaness Blogger Event on Thursday 15th February at 9:30am starting at Let's talk VIVANESS, Hall 7A, and hold the following presentations:
- Thursday 15th February, 11:00-11:45am: Against Greenwash: Communicating the added value of certified natural and organic cosmetics to the consumers in 2018
- Friday 16th February, 1:00-1:45pm: Cosmetic Packaging, Sustainability and the Renewable Circular Economy: EU-funded URBIOFIN project
Additional information on the talks can be found here.
We are happy to announce that the 2nd URBIOFIN newsletter is ready. Please feel free to disseminate it across your own channels and networks.
NATRUE has committed itself to this EU-funded project consortium that deals with conversion of the organic fraction of Municipal Solid Waste (MSW) into different bioproducts with a high industrial interest.
In this issue you can read about achieving the first milestone, i.e. the characterization and selection of the best Organic Fraction of Municipal Solid Waste that is the basis for further investigations in the project, as well as the 2nd General Meeting and the BBJ JU Stakeholder Forum in Brussels where the project was presented.
If you would like to find out more and follow the project we encourage you to sign up to the newsletter and consult the www.urbiofin.eu homepage.
“As a leading organic certification body in China, CERES (Shanghai) Certification Co., Ltd. wants to promote the development of natural and organic cosmetics in China and beyond” states Mr Zong'an Liu, Director of Technical Department of CERES “After long time research, NATRUE was identified as the best partner to achieve that goal. The not for profit status of the association as well as the strictness of the standard have been crucial factor on that choice” continues Mr Zong'an Liu.
“NATRUE is delighted to welcome CERES Shanghai to our independent, international network of approved certifiers. We see this move as a positive and mutually beneficial one for both parties, companies and consumers alike. To protect and promote natural and organic cosmetics the vision of the NATRUE Label’s has always been global. Through continuously forging likeminded partnerships like this one, we continue to expand our global vision and uncovered international markets to allow consumers in those regions to have increased access to the high quality and authentic products they expect. As in all its activities, NATRUE warmly welcome all stakeholders to join us and be part of our collective mission and vision.”
CERES Shanghai provides an additional regional reference point for companies wishing to certify finished products and raw materials according to NATRUE, and with this recent accreditation the network of NATRUE Approved Certifiers becomes stronger and more international.
“With 11 operational certification bodies, NATRUE can count on a broad network which is quite impressive for a single natural and organic cosmetic standard. Our seal is therefore a true beacon in the jungle of labels and our independent certification system is a way of ensuring transparency and high quality in certification activities” affirms Francesca Morgante Label and Communication Manager at NATRUE “No matter which is the certifier chosen by the company, consumers will only need to look for the NATRUE Label on packaging, and they will be guaranteed to purchase an authentic natural and organic cosmetic”
Currently certification to the international NATRUE standard is supported by the following independent control bodies worldwide:
A.NAT.CERT (Germany), Bio.Inspecta (Switzerland), BioAgricert (Italy), Biogro (New Zealand), CCPB (Italy), CERES (China), EcoControl (Germany), Ecogruppo Italia (Italy), IBD (Brazil), JAPAL (Japan) and SGS Institut Fresenius (Austria).
NATRUE is a sponsor of the event and actively participating to the two days. In particular Dr. Mark Smith, Director General of NATRUE will be moderating the panel discussion "Role of Sustainability schemes" from 12.40 to 13.00 on Day 2 - Tuesday 7th November.
The growing use of agricultural materials in cosmetics & personal care products is raising questions about sourcing practices. An update will be given on sustainable sourcing of cosmetic ingredients, highlighting issues with supply chains and transparency. Another session will cover developments in green formulations. What new green materials are making their way in cosmetic & personal care applications? How are brands integrating sustainability into their product formulations? Approaches to address the social impacts of cosmetic products will also be featured. How can brands increase the social value of their products? What can be done to encourage responsible use and disposal of cosmetic and personal care products?
In concomittance with the Summit, the Sustainability Beauty Award winners will be announced. Among the Finalists NATRUE's is pleased to see a great representation of NATRUE certified brands from all over the world concurring to the title, including Trilogy Natural Products from New Zealand running as Sustainability Pioneer and again Trilogy and Alteya Organics from Bulgaria, running for the Green Formulations title. Last year, Weleda, founding member of NATRUE was awarded for both Green Formulations and Sustainability Leadership. Registrations are still open at the following link http://www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com/registration.htm
ISO is an independent, non-governmental international organization that creates documents setting specifications, requirements or guidance on a topic. The process brings together expertise from a sector to address solutions to global challenges. Generally-speaking through standardisation complexity can be reduced, and with-it barriers to trade. As such, this approach is something that the natural and organic cosmetic sector could have benefited from.
“Without prejudice, NATRUE welcomes internationally agreed initiatives aimed at reducing complexity and barriers to trade with an emphasis on combating ‘greenwashing’, which is the reason why the NATRUE Label exists. We believe strongly that consumers must not be misled by products claiming ‘natural’ and organic’ but this requires strict criteria to benchmark them” states Dr Mark Smith, Director at NATRUE.
Unfortunately, the outcome of this international process, the ISO 16128 guidelines, has fallen short of current private standard’s requirements, and there is no guarantee that products using it will be consistent with consumer expectations, especially within established markets such as the EU. The broad permissions and flexibility of approach as a guideline fails to combat greenwashing that, at heart, still misleads consumers, fragments the market place, and impacts those innovative producers of authentic products. As such, even if both are voluntary schemes, use of the ISO guidelines cannot provide the same immediacy and transparency to reassure consumers and match their expectations as current private standards.
The 3 critical points overall regarding the ISO 16128 guidelines they stand that do not improve the current status quo regarding greenwashing and differ from private standards are:
·General lack of transparency for consumers
The guidelines can only be accessed by paying, and even if purchasing the guidelines alone will not clarify how they have been used in practice.
·Permitted ingredient origin: Petrochemical and GM Plants
Petrochemical:Users of the guideline are not obliged to restrict the use of petrochemicals whatsoever. Consumers would not expect mineral oil to be in authentic products but ISO 16128 would allow it. This is an example of how the guideline is fundamentally inconsistent with the principles of the sector, and do not help the evolution and growth of the sector or solve the core issue surrounding greenwash.
GM Plants: Consumer do not expect cosmetic ingredients coming from sources like genetically modified plants (GMOs) to be permitted in natural and organic cosmetics. Consumers are currently reassured on this point as each of the most established private standards for natural and organic cosmetics guaranteed a ban on such ingredients.
Verification, control and identification of finished products
Part 2 of the guidelines provides calculations to determine natural or organic ingredient content; these can be voluntarily authenticated by certification. However, certification here should not be confused with whether or not the product can officially qualify to claim natural or organic, or certification as it is understood according to private standard that sets specific criteria for finished products.
Certification to ISO 16128 only authenticates that the calculation was carried out correctly, as the guideline has no benchmark to establish at what percentage content a product can claim or be considered natural or organic. These are out of scope of ISO 16128 and remain the responsibility of the regulator.
Consumers have grown to expect some kind of verification logo or seal on a product to assure them of its authenticity. In a study commissioned by NATRUE to GfK it emerged that over 60% of consumers are reassured by the presence of a label on natural and organic cosmetics.
Now we’re here, what do we want from our future? It should be remembered that the ISO guideline is purely voluntary; its availability does not represent an automatic change in the regulatory framework for natural and organic cosmetics. Countries might choose to adopt the ISO guidelines but there is no obligation.
For the time being ISO 16128 does not change the status quo and leaves space for products that continue, at best, or increase at worst, greenwashing. If a regulatory body were to adopt the guidelines directly in their current state the market risks to be swamped with legitimate but “nature-inspired”, as opposed to truly authentic products thereby generating confusion amongst consumers and negatively impacting authentic producers. More broadly, it is not only possible to conceive fragmented use of the guideline by companies within a territory or nation but also fragmented use globally, if different regulatory bodies decided to add or modify criteria from the ISO 16128 template if incorporating it into law or national guidelines. In either scenario there may be variation between one product’s petrochemical content and another, or whether ingredients in that product are from GMO origin or not.
To provide consumers with the products they expect, NATRUE advocates that any future regulatory procedure for natural and organic cosmetics, including an official definition or specific guidance for product claims ‘natural’ or ‘organic’, must be strict.
One crucial factor is to maintain trust for future sector growth. This means proactive commitment to stop greenwashing and promotion of an environment of transparency and authenticity. To meet consumer expectations, and to truly combat greenwashing, products claiming to be natural or organic must severely restrict petrochemical use to only specific functions, like preservatives, with a clear emphasis on eliminating their dependence altogether, as well as excluding ingredients from GMOs. All of which will also mean increasing encouragement for further scientific innovation of authentic natural and organic ingredients. Taken together, however, we can see a future where products deliver claims that align themselves with consistent and established consumer expectations for natural and organic rather than greenwash.
“NATRUE is the only association uniquely placed to represent the natural and organic cosmetic sector through its seat at the European Commission Working Group on Cosmetics. This privileged position allow us to directly participate and contribute to evolving legislation, like claims, and actively campaign to support initiatives that help the whole sector to progress and prosper without undermining consumers trust” concluded Dr Smith.
Dr Mark Smith, Director General of NATRUE, has been voted No.13 in in this year's 'Who's Who in Natural Beauty', published in the autumn issue of Natural Beauty News. Voted for by the natural and organic beauty industry, the Top 25 provides an overview of the leading industry personalities who are shaping and influencing the UK's natural beauty industry. This year's list includes beauty brands, retailers, distributors, beauty writers, make-up artists and bloggers - all championing natural and organic cosmetics.
Mark was appointed as Director General of NATRUE in July 2016, and is responsible for the running of NATRUE, having a leading role in the association's political, regulatory and scientific affairs. Today Mark speaks at international symposiums, conferences and industry events, communicating the work of NATRUE and the importance of meaningful certification standards for natural and organic cosmetics.
Mark was delighted to hear the news, commenting:
"I am delighted and honoured that in our 10th anniversary year we are celebrating having both a member of the NATRUE team and a NATRUE founder member (Weleda) amongst such influential grouping. NATRUE is extremely grateful for the recognition given by those who voted, and we take this with us as part of our continuing mission to protect the authenticity of the natural and organic cosmetic sector."
The new Who's Who in natural beauty top personalities is announced as follows:
1 Jayn Sterland - Weleda 2 Sarah Brown - Pai Skincare 3 Kim & Alexander Barani - Kinetic Enterprises 4 Lucy Pottinger - Holland & Barrett 5 Lorraine Dallmeier - Botanical Beauty 6 Lauren Bartley - The Soil Association 7 Kirstie & Luke Sherriff - Pinks Boutique 8 Sonia White - Love Lula 9 Jo-Anne Chidley - Beauty Kitchen 10 Helen Yeardsley - Pegasus PR 11 Fiona Klonarides - Beauty Shortlist 12 Janey Lee Grace - broadcaster & journalist 13 Dr Mark Smith - NATRUE 14 Amanda Barlow - Made for Life Organics 15 Imelda Burke - Content Beauty 16 Jale Demirchi - Jalue 17 Rebecca Goodyear - Rebecca Goodyear Health & Beauty 18 Laura Rudoe - Evolve Beauty 19 Margo Marrone - The Organic Pharmacy 20 Mark Steele - Waitrose 21 Graeme Hume - Pravera 22 Josephine Fairley - The Beauty Bible 23 Louise Dartford - Lou Dartford Green Beauty 24 Ben Wigley - Big Green Smile 25 Tabitha James Kraan - Tabitha James Kraan Organic Haircare
During SANA 2017, NATRUE introduced new communication tools designed to help consumers defend themselves from this ever-growing phenomenon. The new video in Italian, which has been previewed at the show (available on the YouTube Channel of the Association www.youtube.com/watch ) explains in a simple and modern way how to recognize true natural and organic certified products. In addition, the video points out the importance for NATRUE to be present and active in Brussels, the centre of decision-making processes, in order to protect true natural and organic cosmetics.
Inside the exhibition area visitors were able to leave their posts on a blackboard and under the hashtag #labelyoucantrust they could comment live on social networks on their experience at the stand of the Association.
"Consumers like Emma, the protagonist of our video, want the products they buy to be natural and organic but they know that some may not really be; therefore, the NATRUE label offers a guarantee of naturalness in a clear and transparent way," said Francesca Morgante, NATRUE Label and Communication Manager.
The NATRUE standard, chosen from more than 5,000 products, 230 brands in 30 countries, is a guarantee label that was established to offer consumers the chance to choose true natural and organic beauty products. The standard sets three certification levels: Natural Cosmetics, Natural Cosmetics with Organic Components (at least 70% organic) and Organic Cosmetics (95% or more organic). In addition, the certification process is carried out by third party and independent organisations that verify product compliance to the standard.
In the area shared with its members Weleda and Naturativ who presented their product novelties, NATRUE has thus made a point on the trend of certified natural and organic cosmetics in the year of its tenth anniversary that was celebrated on Sunday 10th September at the stand with all its companies and partners. In fact, Sana has been chosen as the last Italian stage of the "10th Anniversary on Tour" which sees the association engaged until December in promotional activities in all major industry events.
"From Sana until the end of the year, NATRUE will be committed to responding to a number of challenges that are first of all linked to the new ISO 16128 guideline, of which the second part related to the criteria for natural cosmetics is expected to be published in the fall. This guideline, unlike the private standards, even allows the use of GMOs and synthetic ingredients, thus not only endangering consumers' confidence in natural and organic products but also affecting the important achievements of the sector", concludes Dr. Mark Smith, Director General of NATRUE.
Due to recent changes at the NATRUE member company Laverana, Klara Ahlers, former managing director of Laverana has resigned from her role as President of NATRUE. NATRUE Vice President Andreas Sommer will be chairing the work of the NATRUE Board of Directors during the interim period until the next membership assembly in spring 2018.
Andreas Sommer is Chief Commercial Officer (CCO) for the Weleda Group and a member of the Weleda Executive Board.
Dr Henrike Neuhoff, Chief Science Officer (CSO) at Laverana, will henceforth represent her company at NATRUE.
On behalf of all the NATRUE members, we would like to extend our heartfelt thanks to Klara Ahlers for her valuable contribution to our organization, both professionally as well as personally. During her 10 years as a Board member and especially, her 5 years as President of our organization, she has shaped NATRUE substantially and has helped build a worldwide network of likeminded individuals and organizations.
We wish Klara Ahlers all the best for the future.
NATRUE is a Brussels based international non-profit association committed to promoting and protecting Natural and Organic Cosmetics worldwide. Founded in 2007, we provide a home to all true friends of Natural and Organic Cosmetics and embrace all who commit to our high standards of quality and integrity.
NATRUE is looking for a highly motivated candidate seeking a long-term managerial opportunity in regulatory and scientific affairs. Candidates should show practical skills, high motivation for work, flexibility, and team spirit working with a dynamic and international team in Brussels.
Key Responsibilities: The candidate will be responsible for two main areas of work within the Association:
1. Regulatory and Scientific activities (Association)
Identify strategic scientific and regulatory challenges via regular monitoring in the natural and organic cosmetic sector and related fields and coordination with internal working groups
Define scientific and regulatory strategy/policy making by submitting proposals to Director General in close cooperation with the technical delegates of the member companies
Organize and follow scientific projects as defined by the Director General and Board of Directors (BOD)
Be responsible of the Regulatory and Scientific working group and any other task force as defined by the Director General and BOD
Management of the association's role in EU-funded project consortium
2. NATRUE Criteria (Label)
Responsible for the update and interpretation of the NATRUE Label Criteria
Responsible for the Scientific Committee Criteria and Label
Responsible for the follow-up of technical inquiries on the Criteria (including those from the network of certification bodies working with NATRUE, Label Users and members companies, press, etc.)
EU project management
Participation at international events, trade fairs, conferences
Support the office with meeting management, translations, and other tasks when required
The candidate reports to the Director General and BOD via reports, conference call and meetings
The candidate will support the team in scientific/regulatory matters as of need
Master Degree level or higher in either Cosmetics, Chemistry, Pharmaceutical or Biomedical Sciences
The candidate should have experience in a similar mid-level managerial role or other technical role, and ideally with experience in regulatory affairs · Excellent time management and interpersonal skills
Able to maintain accuracy when multi-tasking
Ability to identify prioritise and co-ordinate workload to ensure support for co-workers and members of the association
High level of computer literacy
Desirable qualities: Highly motivated: self-driven; resilient; team-oriented; Distinct language skills: Fluency in English with one other EU language; fluency or professional proficiency in German is desirable and French a plus.
Application: Please send CV with cover letter to Ms Menouch Solimani firstname.lastname@example.org. Start 01/09/2017
Since 1st June 2017, NATRUE has been partner of an exciting and innovative EU-funded new sustainability initiative, URBIOFIN, whose objective is to transform the organic part of municipal solid waste into biobased products, including product packaging.
Having been committed to protecting and promoting authentic Natural and Organic Cosmetics for ten years - a sector which is increasingly moving thanks to the constant and growing focus on sustainability -, NATRUE is delighted to be participating in the European sustainable URBIOFIN project. The latter is coordinated by the Spanish engineering company IMECAL and it has received funding from the Bio Based Industries joint Undertaking under the European Union's Horizon 2020 research and innovation programme under grant agreement No 745785.
In its role as a project partner, NATRUE "gives another important signal for sustainability and active responsibility. The Association joined the industry consortium project to help solve environmental pollution and contribute to the transition to a renewable circular bio-economy through sustainably converting municipal waste into targeted products like cosmetic packaging", explains NATRUE President Klara Ahlers.
NATRUE participated in the kick-off meeting of the URBIOFIN project which was held on 12th and 13th June 2017 in Valencia, Spain. Expected to run for four years, URBIOFIN will demonstrate how ten tonnes of organic urban waste can be converted into biobased products per day, thereby validating the entire value chain including the involvement of waste management authorities in all 28 European Member States as well as the validation of products selected by end consumers. The aim is to move towards a more sustainable bioeconomy by obtaining valuable and marketable bioproducts, such as cosmetic product packaging, from urban waste.