Dr Mark Smith joined NATRUE in June 2014 as Scientific and Regulatory Manager. He will continue his role in these fields of expertise in addition to his responsibilities related to his new role as Director General.
We thank Dr Mark Smith for this strong commitment and wish him every success in his new role. We are confident that by taking this step, the NATRUE organization will reinforce its mission to protect and promote natural and organic cosmetics worldwide.
“The Annual Report 2015 is an in-depth way to discover everything NATRUE has done to date; with a focus on the last twelve months. In 2017 we will celebrate NATRUE’s 10th anniversary. giving us altogether the chance to mark the successes of the past, and to look forward to the challenges and achievements of the future – as well as other great, and unexpected, things” Klara Ahlers proudly exclaims.
The Report is structured in 3 specific areas which represent the main activities of NATRUE: Advocacy, Label and Research.
Presenting for the very first time all NATRUE members listed by country and includes key statistics on the unstoppable worldwide spread of the NATRUE Label.
For those interested in knowing more about how NATRUE works, the sections regarding the organisational structure, the BOD, and its working groups as well as the NATRUE team provide further insights.
The Annual Report is freely downloadable here. Enjoy!
Brussels/Berlin, 20th June 2016. 49 active members from over 15 countries worldwide, over 4,700 certified products, more than 200 brands - those were the figures presented by NATRUE, the international non-profit association for natural and organic cosmetics, at its annual Membership Assembly on 1st June 2016 in Berlin.
Over 50 representatives from member companies plus journalists, bloggers and national and international association representatives received information on current developments as well as major trends in the sector, including an international study, in the context of consumers' behaviour, commissioned by NATRUE. In subsequent workshops and debate rounds, participants could discuss future opportunities and the challenges ahead for the natural and organic cosmetics sector.
NATRUE keeps growing At this year's Membership Assembly, NATRUE President Klara Ahlers welcomed 14 new members, bringing the total number of member companies up to 63. All are committed to promoting and protecting natural skincare and raising awareness for natural cosmetics worldwide.
Presentation of international study on consumers' behaviour The study "Exploring the Territory of Natural and Organic Cosmetics" presented by Senior Research Expert at the market research institute GfK Vicky De Mesmaecker provided profound insights into the behaviour of European consumers. 900 women from 6 countries (Germany, France, Italy, Poland, Sweden, and the United Kingdom) between 25 and 65 regularly using natural and organic cosmetics were interviewed. Key findings included:
1. 61% of consumers trust in seals when purchasing natural and organic cosmetics.
2. Nearly three quarter of the interviewees (71%) consider natural and organic ingredients important when purchasing natural and organic cosmetics. They have particularly high expectations regarding naturalness and safety for products like face and body creams, as well as products for babies and children.
3. 60% want to avoid products containing ingredients deriving from genetically modified organisms (GMOs).
NATRUE's role within the regulatory framework and contribution to market development To-date, no official definition for natural and organic cosmetics exists in the regulatory framework. Therefore, multiple private standards exist whose seals aim to effectively reassure consumers of the naturalness of their purchased product. The problem is: each of the numerous seals has different criteria, making it difficult for consumers to choose. Dr. Mark Smith, Scientific and Regulatory Manager at NATRUE, raised this issue in his presentation "NATRUE's Role in the regulatory Framework".
Particular emphasis was placed on the controversial ISO guidelines 16128, which not only do not contain any criteria for the classification of products as 'natural' or 'organic' cosmetics but also authorise the use of genetically modified organisms and synthetic ingredients. Further updates and results relating to topics in which NATRUE is also actively involved, including essential oils, allergens and denaturants, were also presented. In addition, Dr. Smith explained the fundamental principles for self-regulation and gave an insight into further challenges. According to Dr. Smith, future hot topics will primarily revolve around sustainable packaging, preservatives and the use of palm oil.
In her presentation on the market development of the natural and organic cosmetics sector, NATRUE Label and Communication Manager Francesca Morgante showed the importance of an international standard definition, as well a clear distinction from mainstream cosmetics or labels with less strict criteria. NATRUE is the only label guaranteeing that at least 75% of the individual products of a certain range (either identified by the brand or sub-brand) fulfil the conditions of the NATRUE standard. "This unique 75% rule requires a high level of commitment on the part of producers", states Mrs. Morgante, "but at the same time supports the company in positioning itself with a trusted standard on the market". Moreover, NATRUE assists in communicating the brand, including at international fairs such as VIVANESS 2016. At this event, NATRUE was presented for the first time as supporting partner exhibiting with a joint stand in cooperation with twelve NATRUE certified brands.
Following these talks, NATRUE President Klara Ahlers presented the first NATRUE Annual Report 2015, intended to facilitate the communication of NATRUE both internally and externally. The afternoon consisted of four workshops providing the participants the opportunity for a deeper dive into various issues relating to market trends, advertising claims and legal provisions, social media marketing and scientific research projects.
Coffee grounds as a scrub In the context of his workshop, Amarjit Sahota, President of the consulting company Organic Monitor, presented the latest figures relating to the market development of natural and organic cosmetics on a global scale, and gave insights into its future developments. Mr. Sahota identified the wish for ethical consumption and for avoidance of synthetic ingredients as driving factors in the growing natural cosmetics market. More sustainable product packaging, and new formulations using alleged waste material such as coffee grounds as a body scrub might in the future, ensure an even higher sustainability of cosmetic products. Moreover, according to the market researcher, it will be mainly the consumers' responsibility to ensure long-term sustainable product cycles.
Does the product live up to its promises? Dr. Theresa M. Callaghan, CCI, an expert in cosmetic claims with background in global R&D management, addressed the following question: "Are your natural/organic beauty products 'honest' when it comes to claims?". Dr. Callaghan explained the legal basis for marketing claims and the benefits of linking to a scientifically based approach for successful, clear marketing statements for natural and organic cosmetic products. Using examples, the workshop illustrated the impact of misleading marketing claims and showed strategies for using meaningful, substantiated claims. This includes performing consumer and laboratory studies and obtaining expert opinions.
Scientific evaluation of skin allergies The key to the safe use of fragrances is a science-based risk assessment and appropriate risk management to understand sensitivities and allergies. The IFRA (International Fragrance Association) is a global trade association that promotes the safe use of fragrances. Dr. Matthias Vey, Scientific Director of IFRA, announced a comprehensive update on current and developing risk assessment methods through the IDEA (International Dialogue for the Evaluation of Allergens). Dr. Vey also emphasized the need for adequate regulation.
Golden Rules for Social Media Lisa Brandstötter, founder of Boom Creative Lab, a social media agency based in Salzburg, presented basic methods to optimally promote natural and organic cosmetics online. As mobile devices play an increasingly important role amongst social media users, it is important to think mobile first, said the expert. People are daily exposed to a flood of information - the attention span decreases. Short and meaningful texts and a clear picture design prevent this phenomenon and ensure an optimal engagement of social media users. In addition, Brandstötter explained the benefits of so-called influencer marketing whereby companies agree to cooperate with people who enjoy a strong presence and a high reputation in social networks. Benefits: users trust their opinion, leading to a new target audience.
This year, there many more good reasons to participate.
First of all, in the morning starting at 10.30, GfK will present the insights of a cross-country study research commissioned by NATRUE which will reveal consumer expectations and level of awareness about Natural and Organic Cosmetics from six European countries (Germany, France, UK, Italy, Sweden and Poland).
As a conclusion to the morning session all the participants will receive a copy of the first edition of the NATRUE Annual Report: key facts and figures about NATRUE, the spread of the Label, the engagement of the members and NATRUE accomplishments over the whole of 2015.
For those who remain for the entire day – the afternoon interactive sessions will prove to be interesting and informative. On this occasion, NATRUE has invited keynote speakers who will provide the audience with relevant, new and stimulating content:
MARKET Trends - Amarijt Sahota - Organic Monitor How will the Market for NOC’s develop within the next 10 years?
Claims and Regulations - Theresa Callaghan - CCI
Natural Cosmetics and EU Claims Legislation - Compliance, Issues and Future Perspectives
Social Media Marketing – Visibility - Lisa Brandstötter Boom Creative Lab
What are the best marketing strategies on Facebook and Instagram for Private Natural & Organic Labels to increase attention span, engage with the right audience and understand consumer needs?
Scientific Research Projects - Mattias Vey - IFRA
Which Scientific Developments should or could be adopted by producers of NOC’s to maintain or increase innovation in the sector of Natural and Organic Cosmetics?
“Our aim is to offer each participant valuable content to take home – therefore we have sessions on the market trends, on regulations, as well as on scientific or communication topics” explains Carol Ward, Office Manager at NATRUE, in charge of the program of the day.
Participation to the whole day is free of charge. Membership to NATRUE is not a precondition for participation. A close session for the members only is foreseen in the morning and not open to the public.
NATRUE Label & Communication Manager Francesca Morgante elaborated:
"The new Pavilion will bring together both established pioneering beauty brands such as Lavera and Weleda, who were founding members of NATRUE in 2007, and new brands to the UK from around the globe - Italy, Germany, Switzerland, Poland and beyond. Joining forces under the umbrella of the NATRUE Pavilion, we hope to communicate the importance of certification for manufacturers when differentiating themselves from all the 'greenwash' beauty brands on the market, and we will be raising awareness of NATRUE's high certification standards and the benefits for consumers and indeed retailers."
The Pavilion will include the following exhibitors:
Le Fate della Terra (Italy)
Vivienne Swiss Formula (Switzerland)
Klara Ahlers, President of NATRUE and Managing Director Laverana GmbH commented: "We are delighted to be present at Natural & Organic Products Europe as a brand and manufacturer for the very first time. We deliberately decided to join the NATRUE Pavilion rather than having a stand of our own. The shared Pavilion will be a good opportunity for our brand Lavera to exhibit alongside other certified brands, and to highlight the quality and strength of true certified natural and organic cosmetics."
Weleda's Commercial Director Jayn Sterland also commented: "We are really looking forward to joining forces with NATRUE and other NATRUE-certified beauty brands in support for genuine and strict certification standards for natural and organic cosmetics. The Pavilion will be a real information hub at the show where retailers can find out more about NATRUE and what the logo stands for, how it differentiates brands such as Weleda, and offers customers a real guarantee of authenticity. We are excited to be revealing our latest launches, including a range of NATRUE-certified natural fragrances".
NATRUE Talk - Sunday 17 April 2016 at 3pm Visitors can listen to NATRUE's talk 'Natural & organic cosmetic consumers - what drives their purchasing decision?' , on Sunday at 3pm in the Natural Beauty & Spa Theatre. Carol will explain the findings of an international research study carried out by Gfk to explore what consumers expect from natural and organic cosmetics and what they truly know about them.
The NATRUE team looks forward to welcoming visitors and Press onto the stand. Carol Ward and Krystel van Hoof will be available at the Pavilion to answer questions. Press are invited to collect a pampering NATRUE goody bag of natural and organic cosmetics from participating brands.
The ISO 16128-1:2016 definitions consider ingredients made from GMOs and petrochemical origin acceptable for natural and organic cosmetics. Not only are such ingredients prohibited by the NATRUE Standard but they are also not in-line with consumer expectations. The definitions provided byISO 16128-1:2016 leave the consumer unable to know without doubt from a product’s INCI list, which ingredients are, or are not, from natural origin.
NATRUE believes that the consumer has the fundamental right to know, and so be able to make a conscious and informed purchase decision based upon transparent information.
“The definitions and processes used to make ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ ingredients should be clear, consistent and verifiable”, commented Dr Mark Smith, Regulatory and Scientific Manager at NATRUE, “the NATRUE Standard has established coherent definitions for permitted ingredients that help consumers to confidently identify natural and organic cosmetics products at a glance. The natural and organic cosmetics sector does not need weak definitions for its ingredients, as those provided in ISO 16128-1:2016” concluded Dr Smith.
NATRUE is a liaison representative within Working Group 4 of ISO TC/217; contributing and participating in the development process by providing technical comment but without the right to vote. Further details about NATRUE’s positon on ISO 16128 can be found via our news and factsheet, and for any additional information interested parties are invited to take contact with Dr. Mark Smith firstname.lastname@example.org.
In the joint exhibition space of NATRUE (hall 21N booth A11), visitors can explore what differentiates the true natural and organic cosmetics by the growing phenomenon of greenwashing. NATRUE will be present along with Dr. Hauschka - WALA, Gala Cosmetics, Elotia and Weleda, leading companies in the field of green cosmetics, which will present their new NATRUE certified products.
"Although the natural and organic cosmetics market is expanding, it still lacks a dedicated law. While consumers have become more aware, greenwashing still represents a risk. Our participation expresses a willingness to promote certification as a useful tool for companies and consumers alike to promote authentic natural and organic cosmetics," said Francesca Morgante, NATRUE Label Manager.
Francesca Morgante will be available for journalists and visitors to present the rules useful to identify a natural cosmetic that can be summarized into three fundamental key points: the absence of certain substances by itself does not qualify a cosmetic as natural or organic; the presence of organic extracts alone does not guarantee the naturalness of a formulation. Finally, an independent third party certification process based on a strict protocol is an assurance of quality.
Currently, the NATRUE standard, which is adopted by more than 200 brands leading to over 4,700 certified products, goes beyond these basic rules. In actual fact, NATRUE requires that at least 75% of the product line must be able to obtain certification. In addition, water, the main ingredient in many cosmetic formulations, is not considered a natural component, thus NATRUE avoids inflating the perception of naturalness by the consumer.
Organized, precise and reliable Office Administrator Intern
Undergraduate/graduate seeking an opportunity as Scientific and Regulatory Affairs Intern
Candidates should show practical skills, high motivation for work, flexibility, and team spirit to work with a dynamic and international team in Brussels. Full internship descriptions are provided in the attachments.
Since 2007, VIVANESS is taking place in parallel to BIOFACH as a trade fair for natural cosmetics in Nuremberg and has established itself as a central platform for the natural and organic cosmetics industry over the last few years.
NATRUE, the International Natural and Organic Cosmetics Association will be represented from 10th to 13th February at the trade fair and partake for the first time with a joint stand at VIVANESS (Hall 7A, stand 245). In addition to information on the association, the NATRUE label and the latest developments, the stand of over 100m2 offers space to exhibition representatives of twelve international manufacturers of natural and organic cosmetics which use the NATRUE label.
These include, among others, the NATRUE founding members and industry pioneers Laverana, PRIMAVERA-LIFE and Weleda. "We have taken the 10th anniversary of VIVANESS as an opportunity to conceive a new representation of NATRUE at the trade fair," says Francesca Morgante, NATRUE Label Manager. "The result - a joint stand with twelve NATRUE certified brands, perfectly reflecting the internationality of our label and the great commitment of the brands who, together with NATRUE, promote and protect certified natural and organic cosmetics."
Key dates related to NATRUE's joint stand at VIVANESS 2016:
Who: - NATRUE - Cosnature (Cosmolux, Germany) - Dermoplant (Dermoplant, France) - Farfalla (Farfalla Essentials AG, Germany) - HEJ ORGANIC (BRAND PUR GmbH, Germany) - Irish Organics (RÍ NA MARA, Ireland) - lavera (Laverana GmbH, Germany) - Master Lin (GW Cosmetics GmbH, Austria) - Naturativ (Aromeda, Poland) - PRIMAVERA (PRIMAVERA LIFE GmbH, Germany) - Idea Toscana, Prima Spremitura Bio (Il Forte srl, Italy) - Vivienne Swiss Formula (Vivienne Swiss Formula GmbH, Switzerland) - Weleda (Weleda AG, Germany).
When: Wednesday, 10.02. to Saturday, 13.02.2016 Where: Trade Fair Nuremberg | Hall 7a | Stand 245
Under the motto "Discover the World of NATRUE", there will be the possibility to discover NATRUE certified products from all over the world: journalists and bloggers are to receive a "passport" which will guide them through their discovery journey across the world of NATRUE on the exhibition grounds of VIVANESS, informing them about the various NATRUE certified products and brands.
The NATRUE Team will be at the stand at the visitors' disposal throughout the trade fair days. Moreover, NATRUE President Klara Ahlers, NATRUE Label Manager Francesca Morgante and Regulatory and Scientific Manager Dr. Mark Smith will be represented on the new action stage "VIVANESS on stage" within the framework of the "VIVANESS Congress" with presentations and panel discussions: updated information can be found here
To conclude, Klara Ahlers, President of NATRUE states: "Today, after more than 10 years, VIVANESS has become indispensable for the natural cosmetics sector - such as NATRUE and the NATRUE label. For us as a manufacturer, the fair is one of the most essential and credible platforms to present our brand and products. We are proud to be attending VIVANESS this year as a long-time partner within the framework of NATRUE's joint stand. There could not have been a better time for a new, common NATRUE project such as this one."
ITRI’s interest in natural and organic cosmetics is not without cause, considering the Taiwanese market growth in this sector. In terms of import, Taiwan’s domestic cosmetic market size was about NT$100 billion in 2014, of which NT$ 36.5 billion was from imports. The largest import was from the EU, followed by Japan, and the major import items included skin care and colour cosmetics (>50%). Taiwan’s cosmetic export was NT$ 16.4 billion in 2014. Taiwan’s export is growing strong, with a rise of 134% from 2008 to 2014 (+15%CAGR). China (including Hong Kong) is Taiwan’s largest export country, which grew by 481% from 2008 to 2014 (+34% CAGR).
The meeting in the European capital provided an opportunity for international engagement whereby both NATRUE and ITRI could exchange regulatory and scientific knowledge and ideas from the natural and organic cosmetic industry and research sectors within the EU and Taiwan on natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and finished products.
NATRUE highlighted the need for a strong definition of natural and organic cosmetics and provided and overview of the association’s structure, challenges and achievements. In this respect, NATRUE also outlined its prior involvement in international research and training activities covering scientific research/innovation and regulatory affairs expertise.
The Taiwanese members of ITRI were thoroughly informed and updated on the technical, operational and control methods of the NATRUE Standard as a strong, authentic and well-adopted definition of natural and organic cosmetics, contributing to their protection and promotion to the benefit of consumers worldwide.
The meeting was arranged through introduction of NATRUE to the ITRI delegation by Dr. Gerald Renner of Cosmetics Europe.
For further details please contact Dr Mark Smith, Regulatory and Scientific Manager at NATRUE AISBL (email@example.com).
On the picture (from left to right): Dr Mark Smith, Regulatory and Scientific Manager at NATRUE AISBL; Mr. Eric Tai (General Director and Head of Operation Office of ITRI); Ms Miranda Hsueh (Commercialisation and Industry Service Centre).