Moderator: Irene von Arronent, NOC Sweden Ann-Mari Patshijew, Chairman of PRO luonnonkosmetiikka Francesca Morgante, NATRUE Elodie Toulouze, Ecocert Greenlife
NATRUE - what makes the TRUE difference Monday 2nd November 13.00-13.45
As an anticipation of her talk Francesca Morgante says:
“Consumers increasingly look for naturalness in the cosmetic sector and they are more aware now than in past about what natural and organic cosmetics really means. But how is the industry reacting to this growing awareness? With ISO guidelines about to see the light there is the risk of introducing a kind of “legitimized green-washing”. This sector does not need another (weak) definition of natural and organic products instead it is important to continue to set high natural and organic cosmetic standards, just as NATRUE does, and continue to work hard to explain to consumers the added value of natural and organic cosmetics for ourselves and for our world.”
According to Organic Monitor, the Nordic market is one of the fastest growing in Europe, with sales of natural and organic cosmetics projected to reach EUR 200 million in the coming years.
“Scandinavia has some of the highest expenditure rates for natural and organic products in the world,” comments Amarjit Sahota, president of Organic Monitor.
“The Nordic market for natural and organic cosmetics is growing by about 10% per annum, compared to about 5-7% for Western Europe. Increasing distribution is a major driver of market growth, with natural and organic cosmetics making inroads in department stores, beauty retailers, supermarkets and the spa channel. Although specialist retailers (health food shops and organic food retailers) still generate the bulk of sales in the Nordic region,” he says.
"With 14% of exhibitors from 19 countries, NATEXPO represents for NATRUE the best place where to meet the French natural and organic cosmetic sector as well as international players" says Francesca Morgante, NATRUE Label Manager who will attend the show.
In this extraordinary context NATRUE will be guest of the brand lavera (Stand E11) which is not only NATRUE certified but also a founding member of the NATRUE Association.
NATEXPO can be the perfect occasion for journalists, retailers and producers to discover more about NATRUE's contribution to the hot-topics like ISO 16128 and fragrance allergens - just to mention a few - and how its leading role in the Brussels arena is supporting the authentic natural and organic cosmetic sector in fighting greenwashing.
"NATRUE has established itself as a credible and significant player in the organic and natural cosmetics sector. Manufacturers and consumers are looking for a trusted and strict standard for their cosmetics, to distinguish them from the many 'greenwashed' products out there". This is why we are more than happy to raise awareness on real natural and organic cosmetics during NATEXPO days", commented Klara Ahlers, President of NATRUE and Managing Director of Laverana.
It can also be the perfect place to be informed about what is necessary to be done in order to certify products according to the NATRUE criteria, which are the formulation challenges to achieve such a high standard as well as the unique guarantees offered to the consumers.
"To date, the NATRUE Label has been chosen by almost 200 brands and more than 4500 products are available on the market - with 30% of them available and well-established on the French market" concludes Morgante.
NATRUE Label Manager Francesca Morgante will be delighted to meet anyone interested in discovering more about NATRUE. To schedule a meeting, please send an e-mail to firstname.lastname@example.org.
In 2010 draft guidelines for NOC products were tabled by the conventional cosmetic industry with the International Standardization Organization (ISO) with the hopeful aim of creating harmonised technical criteria encouraging innovation, allowing for claims substantiation, and being useful to the industry at large. As the International Natural and Organic Cosmetic Association, NATRUE joined the process as a “liaison representative”.
About the ISO 16128 guidelines
The ISO guidelines for NOC ingredients and products, 16128, are produced by the Cosmetics Working Group at ISO (ISO/217 WG4), and consist of two parts: Definitions (16128-1) and Criteria (16128-2). 16128-1 is, so far, expected in the second half of 2015 whereas 16128-2, currently still under discussion, is likely due in 2016. To be put into practice, both parts of the guideline are required for real-world use to define and calculate natural/organic content for ingredients and products.
In principle everyone involved, both the industry and consumers, could benefit from the ISO guidelines. The practice, however, could be somewhat different as unlike existing standards for natural and organic cosmetics, ISO 16128, in its current state, does not include criteria for determining when a product can, or cannot, be classified as ‘natural’ or ‘organic’. For consumers at the end of the chain, it could therefore be particularly difficult to know exactly whether a product meets requirements in order to be considered “natural” or “organic” based upon its ingredients.
We at NATRUE believe consumers should be given the option to be able to make a conscious and informed purchase decision based upon clear information. A key challenge is to maintain and develop, not loose, consumer trust and confidence in NOC products.
The problems of the ISO 16128 guidelines
Transparency: Private standards for NOC product certification are voluntary and their contents freely and openly accessible to the public; some can be used internationally. The ISO guidelines can also be used internationally and voluntarily but their contents are only accessible through purchase.
Classification of ingredients – ‘natural’:The strength, and strict nature, of a NOC standard is based upon its clear criteria definitions and requirements, consistency and absence of derogations. We at NATRUE do not believe that, as written, ISO 16128-1 meets consumer expectations by permitting artificial (‘man-made’) or genetically modified (GMO) ingredients:
-By definitionNATRUE requires that all derived natural ingredients come exclusively, 100 %, from natural raw materials. The current ISO 16128-1 version technically could allow for up to half of an ingredient (by weight) derived from a natural starting material to come from petrochemical sources.
-Production from or by GMOs is prohibited by NATRUE. However, in certain parts of the world, included as a footnote in ISO 16128-1, GM plants can be considered natural, which is inconsistent with a harmonized approach.
Ingredients classification – ‘organic’:Within its standard NATRUE has a harmonised approach to recognition of accredited organic standards/regulations via the IFOAM Family of Standards. Although ISO guidelines, at present, define what are considered organic ingredients, there is no requirement for the use of a recognised harmonised system to indicate what qualifies a raw material as ‘organic’; instead they provide derogation to differences at (inter)national level.
Substantiation of claims: To-date the ISO guidelines provide no information on the substantiation of claims referring to NOC products. The absence, so far, of any such information on product communication means, as a result, that there is no precise definition of when a cosmetic product is considered ‘natural’ or ‘organic’.
As a vehement supporter of consumers’ fundamental ‘right to know, the right to choose’, we at NATRUE believe that ISO 16128, as currently written, represents more confusion for the consumer with potential for only the perception, rather than reality, of NOC authenticity.For insight into the consumers’ perspective, NATRUE commissioned an independent consumer enquiry study with GfK, which highlighted that the requirements NATRUE criteria reflected consumer expectations.
The role of labels
Consumers are increasingly self-educated and read labels.
The NATRUE Label, as an indication of certification to verifiable requirements within the standard, must be presented on all NATRUE-certified products for the consumer. A NATRUE-certified product can, therefore, only claim when it is considered ‘natural’ or ‘organic’ according to its respective certification level and specific product category requirements.
By contrast the ISO logo is not permitted for use, and, at present, ISO 16128 provides no guidance for when a cosmetic product can be considered ‘natural’ or ‘organic’. In this instance, the consumer is potentially left only a with claim to natural/organic content, based upon criteria calculations from 16128-2, without the added value of transparency to understand of what this claim means and how the value was calculated.
We at NATRUE believe that the ISO 16128 guidelines, as currently written, are expected to be weaker than existing private European standard definitions of NOCs, to whom thousands of consumers have signed-up based on trust and confidence. These guidelines may lead to consumer confusion rather than clarity, even potential mistrust – and this without fundamental consideration of consumer expectations.
Milan, 9th September 2015 - NATRUE, the International Natural and Organic Cosmetics Association based in Brussels in partnership with Dr. Hauschka, Gala Cosmetici, N&B, lavera, Primavera and Weleda, met on Wednesday 9th September at the Teatro della Terra inside the Biodiversity Park of Expo Milano 2015 for an event dedicated to natural "BeautyBeing" ("BellEssere").
Consumers' strong demand for naturalness which is not only reflected in food but also in personal care choices and, more generally, in a more sustainable consumption was one of the main topics of the meeting in Milan.
Discussions revolved around the entire supply chain: from the cultivation of ingredients to the certification and marketing of organic cosmetics, combining beauty and respect for the environment. The promotion of organic farming for the production of cosmetic raw materials represents, in point of fact, a strong impetus for the protection of biodiversity in Italy and around the world.
Francesca Morgante, NATRUE Label Manager, elaborated the distinctive aspects of the NATRUE certification, explaining which ingredients are allowed and in which percentages, thereafter concluding that each brand must ensure the possibility to certify at least 75% of one of its product lines in order to obtain certification.
The importance of a certification increasingly recognized at international level has been the subject matter of Managing Director Weleda Italy Stefano Riva's intervention. He highlighted that the NATRUE association was born from the need to give a voice to a sector which requires adequate representation of the challenges that characterize NATRUE, and the standard is so high as to stimulate even companies that already have stringent criteria to further improve the natural quality of their products.
Patrizia Poggiali, Technical Director Gala Cosmetici, explained why certifying constitutes a choice of quality, transparency, reliability and growth, adding that the continuous updates and improvements dictated by NATRUE's procedural guidelines are concretely reflected in her company's structure, procedures and skills.
During the event, participants were given the opportunity to learn about corporate social responsibility projects such as the protection of biodiversity project realised by Primavera together with the Vandana Shiva community, and the biological supply chain management by N&B, following all processes such as cultivation, extraction and production of cosmetics directly through the experience of N&B founder Domenico Scordari.
In the afternoon the beauty stands of Dr. Hauschka, lavera and Weleda were available to event participants and visitors of the Biodiversity Park. In particular, Dr Hauschka presented its new Experience and Good Night treatments based on Rosa Damascena, Lemon, Lemongrass, Equisetum, Red Clover, Mela Rosa whilst Lorenza Franchetti, CEO Dr. Hauschka expressed the importance of the NATRUE certification for the brand. lavera, inside a highly colourful location, presented the latest natural and organic make-up trends and Weleda introduced and used oils for its treatments.
"We decided to organise this meeting to introduce authentic natural and organic cosmetics through the companies' testimonies, projects and products. As an association, we need to stress how the lack of specific regulations for natural and organic cosmetics disorients the consumer and encourages greenwashing. High certification standards such as those of NATRUE instead represent a practical response to support daily purchase decisions", stated Francesca Morgante, NATRUE Label Manager.
Based in Brussels, NATRUE (www.natrue.org) is the International Natural and Organic Cosmetics Association. Since 2007 we promote and protect authentic natural and organic cosmetics. Today the association has nearly 50 member companies from around 20 different countries. The NATRUE logo allows consumers to recognize at a glance products which contain a high percentage of natural ingredients. The standard defines 13 product categories, distinguishing e.g. creams, oils, shampoos, and mouth hygiene products. This guarantees maximum naturalness of a cosmetic product, taking into account its function. Strict criteria and independent certification processes ensure the highest degree of quality of natural and organic cosmetics to the interest of consumers worldwide. More than 150 brands and 4400 products carry the NATRUE label worldwide.
Sunlight contains ultraviolet light (UV) made up of UVA, UVB and UVC. UV light that is not absorbed by the ozone layer (UVA and UVB) reaches the Earth's surface. Unprotected exposure to UVA and UVB leads to sunburn and could lead to serious health problems, such as skin cancer. In addition, as UVA can contribute to accelerated or premature skin ageing, called photoageing, sun protection is vital for the health of our body; especially so during the summer months when the sun is higher in the sky increasing our skin's daily dose of harmful UV light. Sun protection is particularly important for children who are more sensitive to sun damage than adults.
Pay attention to the Labels:
- A clear SPF (sun protection factor) label. SPF is an industry development to provide a standardised indicator for UVB protection. The minimum recommended SPF is 15 with the highest protection being SPF 50(+).
- The EU harmonised UVA symbol. This symbol illustrates to the consumer that the product provides the recommended minimum UVA protection factor.
How do natural cosmetic sunscreens protect me?
To protect you sunscreens include UV-filters. These work either by absorbing and changing the UV light, which is the case for artificial filters, or by reflecting and scattering the UV light, which is what natural filters do. Only natural, mineral filters are acceptable for the NATRUE criteria.
The most common mineral filters are titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide (ZnO). In the EU, both are considered to be safe for use in sunscreens and both comply with the strict rules of naturalness, as defined by NATRUE.
Last but not least: The NATRUE Label can be your guide for sunscreen products too.
Whenever looking for a truly natural cosmetic sunscreen keep an eye out for those carrying the NATRUE seal.
Natural sunscreens, as for any sunscreen, must always be safe and effective in order to be on the market. The difference remains, however, that all NATRUE-certified sunscreens must include only ingredients found, isolated and/or derived from nature and natural sources. For this reason NATRUE-certified sunscreens only used mineral filters.
NATRUE sets specific requirements to be met to carry the seal, and more information on how NATRUE and its criteria achieves this for the consumer can be found at: http://www.natrue.org/consumers/. Additional information concerning the position of NATRUE and nanomaterial ingredients used in sunscreens can be found at: http://www.natrue.org/press/fact-sheets/.
After 7 years of successful co-operation the International Natural and Organic Cosmetics Association (NATRUE) says farewell and thank you to Ms Julie Tyrrell.
As Managing Director of NATRUE from 2008 to 2014 and then as Director Public Affairs, Ms Tyrrell represented NATRUE and its members not only at European level, as a member of the European Commission's Working Group for Cosmetics, and a member of CEN (The European Standardisation Organisation) but also on an International level as a member of ISO (International Standardisation Organisation) Technical Committee, for Cosmetics Working Group 4 (natural and organic).
NATRUE, all its employees and members, thank Julie very much for her huge commitment and dedication to promoting and protecting NATURAL and ORGANIC COSMETICS worldwide and wish her the very best for her future.
NATRUE is committed to ensuring the availability of premium Natural & Organic Ingredients and to establish a level regulatory playing field for the international Natural & Organic Cosmetics sector to the benefit of consumers worldwide. A perfect illustration of this point is NATRUE’s participation in the IFOAM-EU initiative.
The “Keeping GMOs out of Organics” Roundtable gathers stakeholders, scientists, NGO representatives and EU regions working on GMO-free food production and trade, and on the prevention of GMO contamination. Further information on the Keeping GMOs out of Organics initiative can be found here.
”Raw materials from agriculture are the basis for many NATRUE compliant ingredients, and GMOs are prohibited under the NATRUE criteria. Therefore, NATRUE’s participation in this IFOAM initiative is essential to help secure the quality of our ingredients” stated Dr. Smith, Regulatory and Scientific Manager at NATRUE.
Without a doubt, GMOs are a key concern of Natural and Organic Cosmetics consumers. Nine out of ten women interviewed stated that Natural and Organic Cosmetics should not contain GMOs. This is one of the results of the NATRUE commissioned research study ‘Exploring the Territory of Natural & Organic Cosmetics’ carried out by GfK to discover more about consumer expectations. The summary of the survey is publically available here.
The annual meeting of NATRUE is becoming a fixed date in the industry agenda, as an opportunity to find about NATRUE's development, discuss the challenges of the sector, and network at a very high level with key players in the NOC sector.
The NATRUE Association is steadily growing, as the need for a unified voice for Natural & Organic Cosmetics grows. 16 new members were approved at the 2015 Membership Assembly from around the world - 10 from Germany, 2 from Turkey, 1 from Italy, 1 from The Netherlands and 2 from Switzerland.
The NATRUE logo is also growing in stature. There are now over 4300 NATRUE certified products. The first quarter of 2015 came to a close with almost 280 newly certified products, confirming and reinforcing projections for 2015 for a total of 1000 newly certified products by the end of the year.NATRUE is increasingly recognised as a seal of quality and reliability, and the certification standard that meets both consumers' expectations and manufacturers' needs.
There is also increased interest from companies outside the EU - with 17% of brands now from outside the EU (+2% on last year). NATRUE is growing in popularity as a Label that is highly respected for its strict criteria and standards of naturalness, as well as providing truly international recognition for brands seeking access to multiple markets both inside and outside the EU.
NATRUE's visibility is also expanding, with plans for an exciting new website unveiled at the Membership Assembly. Specially tailored content has been prepared, and new sections to the website have been added for consumers, manufacturers and press making information even more accessible than before. New downloadable fact sheets on political, scientific and regulatory issues have also been introduced.
Political & Scientific Activities
NATRUE has provided the authentic natural and organic industry with a voice and is officially recognised by the EU institutions and at a global level for its activities. NATRUE's key political priorities were highlighted at the Assembly:
1) Article 20/ISO Guidelines The ongoing need for a strict regulatory definition of natural and organic continues. Julie Tyrrell was accepted to represent NATRUE in the European Commission's Working Group on Cosmetics as well in the European Standardization Organization's Working Group on Cosmetics, CEN (NATRUE is already a member of ISO TC217 WG4).
2) Fragrance allergens NATRUE joined forces with other organisations in an industry consortium that participates in and contributes to the future revised regulatory provisions on fragrance allergens.
3) Denaturants The EC is considering reducing the list of allowed denaturants to just a couple of synthetic ingredients. NATRUE has provided its written position on denaturants to the EC and actively participates in the regulatory evolution of this process - a vital issue for the sector, to protect the use of genuinely natural ingredients.
4) GMOs NATRUE is a Roundtable member of IFOAM's three-year project 'Keeping GMOS Out of Organics', an initiative intended to protect the GMO-free supply chain against GMO contamination. NATRUE continues to support IFOAM's position, as NATRUE likewise does not accept that GMOs have a place in natural and organic cosmetics.
Julie Tyrrell, NATRUE Director of Public Affairs, commented: "The NATRUE criteria are, and continue to be, clearer, more transparent and stricter than the ISO guidelines, both regarding the Definitions for ingredients (which have now been approved) as well the Criteria for ingredients and products (which are to be finalised by the end of this year). Indeed, ISO comprises an "agreement to agree", as opposed to the NATRUE Label criteria which focuses on authenticity of the products, guaranteeing maximum naturalness of each NATRUE certified product and leaving no room for greenwashing, to the benefit of consumers worldwide".
Klara Ahlers, NATRUE President, concluded: "Political presence in 2015 is even more important than it was when NATRUE was first founded. The EU is working on several new regulatory issues. NATRUE is working as an advocate and ambassador for natural cosmetics and is the only cosmetic association active in all major and relevant bodies. In order for the necessary concerns about natural cosmetics to be heard, NATRUE ensures that facts are substantiated supplemented and incorporated into influential documents. Without NATRUE, certified natural cosmetics would have no voice in Brussels and consumers' interests could not be defended".
Natural and Organic Products Europe is the UK industry event of the year, attracting visitors from all across Europe. Last year's show welcomed nearly 10,000 visitors from 77 countries, and this year's footfall is expected to be even higher following the show's move to its new home at ExCeL. The show is the No.1 opportunity for British retailers to discover the best quality natural, organic, Fairtrade, sustainable, ethical, free-from, eco and healthy-living products, with over 600 brands and suppliers all under one roof. Visitors can take advantage of a packed Seminar Programme free of charge, delivered by leading industry figures. This is one of the few places where retailers, manufacturers, suppliers, distributors and wholesalers can learn about the latest industry developments, find out about the latest trends and debate the latest hot topics.
NATRUE SEMINAR IN THE NATURAL BEAUTY & SPA THEATRE
All visitors, including the Press, are invited to hear the NATRUE presentation Natural and Organic Cosmetics: Meeting Consumer Expectations given by NATRUE Label Manager, Francesca Morgante, at 12 noon on Sunday 19 April in the Beauty and Spa Theatre. Francesca will present the findings of a new pan-European survey commissioned by NATRUE and carried out by the highly respected independent consumer research agency GfK.
The results of the GfK study, entitled 'Exploring the Territory of Natural & Organic Cosmetics', highlight what consumers expect from natural and organic cosmetics, what drives their purchasing decisions, and what they understand about the products. The research was both qualitative and quantitative, with two small focus groups interviewed in-depth in phase one, and a larger study of over 900 women who were surveyed online during phase two. Come and listen to the talk to hear more detail about the results of this research, and put your questions to Francesca.
NATRUE GUESTS ON THE PRAVERA EXHIBITION STAND A15
The NATRUE team will be guests of Pravera - the UK distributors of NATRUE-certified brands Lavera and Primavera - and will be chatting to journalists, retailers and other visitors to the exhibition stand about the NATRUE standard and what it means for products to bear the NATRUE logo (from 2pm on Stand A15).The team will be delighted to meet with journalists by prior appointment on either day of the show, for interview or to discuss and clarify any queries about the NATRUE organisation and how it contributes to regulatory decision-making in order to defend a strict regulatory definition of natural and organic cosmetics to the benefit of consumers worldwide. To schedule a meeting, please contact NATRUE in advance by email@example.com
The lack of harmonization in the context of a continuously growing natural and organic cosmetics market has turned them into a complex weave and generates confusion among consumers. This roundtable discussion will seek to bring more clarity on this challenging and complicated topic. Since 2009 NATRUE has developed a truly international standard, based on an independent certification system, with the goal of helping consumers identifying natural and organic cosmetics truly worth of that name. In 2010 the Raw Material certification process was launched. Being a non-profit association, NATRUE can implement fee policies based on a constant reduction of the costs connected to the use of the Label the more Label users join the system. Following this approach, the Label fee for Raw Materials has been reduced from 200 € to 50 € each in October 2014. More information is available on the NATRUE website under the section costs
To register for in-cosmetics Barcelona 2015, click here. For more information on the panel discussion, click here.